The 5 hour bus ride was slightly more comfortable this time round and soon we were in El Nido. Unfortunately none of the locals had heard of our Airbnb place but after switching on roaming and some assistance by a very helpful local we eventually piled our bags into a tuk tuk and drove in the direction of where we hoped the place was. As if by magic or fate the tuk tuk driver stopped right outside the Yucca Bungalows much to our relief.
A short while later we were on the lovely Las Cabanas beach, eating fresh fish and enjoying a well-deserved beer (mine was the local apple flavour I’d taken a liking to!) Background music of cheesy pop (think Abba and the Pina Colada song) and we were happy to watch the waves lap up to the beach as the sun shone down.
Later that evening we attended our Tao briefing. An introduction to some of the crew and our fellow passengers for the next 5 days as well as info on the trip, what to expect, what to bring and most importantly a welcome drink of jungle juice!
Full of excitement we bought a few extra items that we needed before heading down to the busy main part of El Nido for dinner, anticipating what was to come.
The next day we met at the port and boarded our beautiful big, wooden sailing vessel. 24 passengers from around the world, 10 local crew and the boat’s dog – Amo (‘the boss’). After a brief explanation of the areas of the boat (it was a day boat, we didn’t sleep on it) and how everything worked we set sail.
A few hours later lunch was served and we were introduced to the first of many fresh squid and fish stir frys. Lunch generally followed the same pattern each day; a salad, a veggie dish, a seafood or pork curry or noodle dish, a piece of grilled fish and ‘Filipino Power’ or rice! There was always seconds and the food was varied and delicious. It was amazing how the two chef were able to feed 30 people with such a variety of dishes from a small galley at the back of the boat!
Our first stop arrived and soon everyone was in the water snorkelling enjoying the clear waters and colourful fish. The second stop was at a cave which was amazing to swim into as the waves pulled you up and down – as Dan said – it was like being in wave machine at your local swimming baths, only way better!!
Back on board it was time for snacks and our sundowner – jungle juice! Jungle juice was a potent mix of rum, pineapple juice, water and local calamasi limes.
We soon arrived at our camp for the night – Cadlao Camp – an uninhabited island with bamboo huts built into the hills above the beach for us to stay in. As we excitedly made up our beds and put up our mossie nets the chefs and crew were busy preparing dinner – Freshly bbq’d red and white snapper.
The drinks flowed and everyone happily got to know each other by going over the day and contemplating what the next day held.
Waking up to the waves crashing and a very noisy local bird acting as an alarm clock, we helped ourselves to the coffee and ginger tea before having one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had. The chefs made what I can only describe as bbq’d aubergine tortillas which were absolutely delicious!! We watched them cook these on the bbq in front of us and tucked in ravenously. I asked Toto, the head chef, for the recipe and it is definitely one I’ll be attempting at home.
Back on the boat (you could either swim out yourself or share a kayak ‘taxi’) we set off for Nakpan beach, famed in El Nido for being one of the longest, whitest beaches on the island. We walked along the beach, played frisby and ball and swam in the warm waters before heading to our next destination – Diapila Village Farm. This is where Tao grow most of their produce and also train their crew and staff. We were shown around with explanations of what they were growing and how Tao was working with local islanders to produce sustainable farming practices. We delighted at seeing the ducks and chickens as well as 10 tiny piglets who had just been born that morning! The local kids ran around, delighting in us visitors taking photos of them and wanting to show us different things. A freshwater bucket shower with locally made coconut shampoo was a welcome relief from the salt water and we returned to the boat with locally made souvenirs and smiles on our faces.
Our camp for the night was on an inhabited island were the local women had formed a co-operative to offer massages to the visitors. Dan and I took advantage of this and enjoyed our hour long coconut oil massages as the sun set before tucking in to a delicious pork adobe for dinner. The boat had a steady supply of beer, rum and gin so we happily enjoyed a few drinks under the stunning, almost perfect, starry night sky.
Our 3rd day was one filled mainly with snorkelling. We travelled to 3 different islands and enjoyed beautiful snorkelling spots whilst sailing past stunning paradise island scenery. Gradually everyone reverted to the ‘island time’ that the crew operated on. Rising when the sun rose and the day being dictated by mealtimes rather than a clock. Despite everyone starting to feel a little ‘snorkelled out’ our final snorkelling spot for the day was the wreck for a Japanese gunship sunk in WWII which provided an amazing array of beautiful, and extremely playful fish for us to see.
Our boat was travelling from El Nido to the island of Coron and the 4th day was set to be a long travelling day. A 5 hour stretch at sea, with a stop followed by another couple of hours. Everyone whiled away the sailing hours by reading, snoozing, chatting and just enjoying the scenery. Early that morning we had picked up a pig which had been found on one of the islands and we were told it would be our dinner. We were invited to watch the chef slaughter it on the back of the boat as it was an essential part of island life for us to understand – there obviously being no shops for miles around.
Our final camp was a beautiful beach and soon some were making good use of the local beach volleyball court! A game beloved by the crew, soon a very competitive crew v passengers game had broken out with the passengers ending victorious in a close fought game! After taking advantage of another massage service we came together to eat the spit roasted pig that had been slowly cooking over a fire pit for 5 hours.
We awoke on our final day and took pictures of our stunning surroundings before tucking into yet another delicious breakfast – porridge with plantain compute eaten out of a fresh coconut! One of my favourite moments!
There was just enough time for one more snorkel and one more jungle juice before we arrived at Coron port. Time for a group photo and to say goodbye and Amo, the Jack Russell, received more cuddles and strokes than he probably wanted!
Tao say on their website that their sailing experience isn’t for everyone and they are right. We had bucket showers, beach hut bedrooms, no air con, lots of mossie and sand fly bites, minor jellyfish stings, sunburn, illness, limited electricity, no wifi or phone signal, no cushions to sit on the boat… I could go on. In fact, a typhoon was approaching the area, yet we were once again very fortunate with the weather. We saw no rain during the 5 days, minimal rough seas, and only welcome cloudy skies on the final day after bright sunshine throughout the trip.
But the joy, laughter, scenery, experience and sense of adventure was second to none, the crew were fun and super friendly and being back to basics in such a stunning, relaxed environment was something that few get to experience. It certainly gave us memories we will cherish for a lifetime. If you like snorkelling, delicious food and adventure whilst in (budget) paradise, this trip should be high on your list of ‘must do’s’.
Tiredbuthappytravels 